Farmhouses in Sicily: a walk in the wild side
Agriturismo in Sicily: more than just a farmhouse holiday an unusual way of seeing what the Mediterranean's largest island has to offer.

Sicily has a millenary agricultural tradition – in the Roman times it was known as the “granary of the Empire” – due to its mild climate, variety of landscapes and people proud of living off the fruits of their land — olive groves, grape vineyards, fruit farms and everything in-between.

But Sicilian farmers have always been jealous of their land and only in the last decade they have started to put together the concepts of working farms and tourism. Learning from the success of other Italian regions, like Tuscany or Trentino, where agriturismi (a combination of the words for "agriculture" and "tourism" in Italian) have changed simple farmers into perfect hosts.

Though Sicily has been slower accepting this trend, it has certainly been faster embracing it. Now an increasing number of farms have been converted into agriturismi (the plural form of agriturismo) all over the island. Travellers can enjoy a true, local experience, stepping away from the intensity of city life and into the earthy elegance of the countryside.

You can plan a visit at any time of the year: every season shows different, enchanting landscapes and if you like to walk, eat good food, drink excellent wine and discover new landscapes, then Sicily is your place.

Given the rural nature of the lodging, one might expect a rustic experience; yet many agriturismi  feature luxurious accommodation as well as swimming pools and other amenities, like riding stables, ready for classic or Western style cavalieri (riders).

Some farms boast extraordinary spaces, in which art, culture, relaxation and well being do meet and blend. Most of them are incredible pieces of architecture, their original structures – perfectly renovated with state of the art facilities – date back to the 16^th c. or even earlier. These are called Baglio (bagli is the plural), and are strong stone manors – sometimes the size of a little castle – with a courtyard in the middle (the word is the same as bailey), usually originated from the tower used to control the land.

Sicilian farmhouses are also perfect home bases to reach the many attractions scattered throughout the island, and the drive is never too long. While driving in the countryside your senses will be touched by rural areas of exceptional scenic beauty. Or you can easily reach the coasts with their pristine beaches or rocky cliffs, for a swim into the sharp blue of the Mediterranean.

If you choose a farmhouse in the south-western side of Sicily, you’ll be able to reach the some of the highlights of Greek antiquities: the Doric Temple of Segesta, the Phoenician island of Motya, the magic ancient town of Selinunte or the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.

Farmhouses located in the Madonie Nature park allow you to discover one of the most interesting natural areas of Italy. Enjoy unique species like the Abies Nebrodensis, a fir that grows only this part of the world, or monumental holly trees. In Autumn, mushroom enthusiasts find here a real paradise and in winter those who like skiing can enjoy the little resort of Piano Battaglia. It is quite an experience skiing and watching the coast of the Thyrrenian sea in the distance!

If you prefer to stay more inland, right in “the belly of the island”, you’ll be close to the towns of Piazza Armerina, with its archaeological treasures; the Roman Villa del Casale and the Greek city of Morgantina or Caltagirone, world known for its exquisite production of ceramics.

A Sicilian agriturismo will usually serve foods prepared from raw materials produced on the farm or at least locally. Some will allow you to actually participate in the activities surrounding the farm. In Autumn grapes and olives are harvested and these are cultural happenings not to be missed. If you are interested in sharing in the bounties of the land with the locals, experience the grapes being pressed and get a first sip of award-winning wines. You can watch the olive milling process and taste premium extra virgin olive oil which tastes great alone or drizzled over roasted vegetables or bread. Or you can have a “hands-on” cooking class where you are introduced to the secrets of top class Sicilian cuisine.

During the warm spring and summer the grounds of the farmhouses are bursting with fruits and herbs, and the fields of wheat become like yellow waves, changing the landscape into a golden sea moving in the summer winds. Nothing beats the fresh scent of basil, rosemary, and figs wafting in the breeze as you step onto the terrace of a farmhouse in the early morning. In August, the peaches and plums are ripe and succulent, perfect for enjoying fresh off the tree or maybe in a pie or pastry.

In the summer some farmhouses organise special camps for children, where they can learn horse riding and other sports. The whole family is sure to have a great adventure filled with fun, exciting challenges, great food, very comfortable accommodations and friendly staff.

The ash of Mount Etna, the highest volcano in Europe, is the secret of the prodigious fertility of the land around Catania, Taormina and Messina, where you can find a wide range of farmhouses, surrounded by red orange trees and lemon orchards. All offering high quality hospitality.

Agriturismi in the south east of the island introduce you to the Hyblean Plateau, with its dramatic landscapes cut by deep canyons. For example, Cassibile Canyon - covered by olive plantations and steeped in history, or rather pre-history, was the site were the remains of pre-historic dwarf elephants and other animals were found. This is the area near Syracuse and the Baroque towns of Noto –a Unesco heritage site– Ragusa, Modica and Scicli. The coasts of this part of Sicily boast long wild sandy beaches, with dunes that separate the waterfront from the countryside.

People who choose this part of the island for their holidays will be delighted by the red Nero d’Avola wine, the local milk and cheese (ragusano) and the chocolate specialities – wonderful with the exotic taste of red pepper! - made in Modica.

Depending on the season, a holiday at a farmhouse also allows the chance to enjoy one of the many exciting events (called sagra) that take place in Sicily, connected to the popular/agricultural traditions.

For instance, if you stay near Agrigento in February you can participate to the Festival of the blooming Almond, that celebrates the ancient ritual of the end of the Winter and the new awakening of nature.

Bagli near Trapani and the Belice Valley are perfect to explore the Mysteries of Easter, when incredible processions that blend the sacred and profane, fill the richly decorated streets of the rural small towns.

If you like medieval castles and history, then choose August and a farmhouse near Caltanissetta, the “castle area” from where you can reach Piazza Armerina and follow the Palio dei Normanni, a medieval tournament that reconstructs the battles between Normans and Saracens. Nearby you can visit the fascinating Mussomeli castle — built on top of a high rock, or explore one of the many ruins scattered throughout the countryside.

Of course, any excuse is good to roam around the Sicilian countryside: be it history or good food and wine, local traditions or interesting characters. Whether you walk and trek or simply relax under a shady tree, you are sure to find that a holiday at a Sicilian farmhouse will remain in your heart as a cherished memory.