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SALZBURG

Salzburg’s urban genius goes beyond simply being Mozart’s birthplace

By Patrick Totty

Geography, natural resources and history often unite to create cities that have an aura about them, no matter what era they’re in. Istanbul, situated on the strategic Bosphorous, comes to mind, as well as New York, with its great natural harbor and location at the outlet of a river, the Hudson, that would play greatly in the rise of the U.S. as an economic power.

On a smaller scale, Austria’s Salzburg is such a city. From ancient times its location in a valley on a navigable river near salt (“salz”) and gold mines, forests and pasturelands made it an enviable and thriving urban location. During the centuries-long Pax Romana, Salzburg (nee Juvavum in 15 A.D.), with its convergence of three major Roman highways, was a major contact point between the great empire and the Germanic tribes that would eventually doom it by 500 A.D., then retrieve its glories in a burst of creative energy a thousand years later.

Of course the most brilliant star Salzburg ever produced was Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the great baroque musician who born there in 1756. Mozart’s emergence cemented Salzburg’s reputation as a city of art, a reputation that had begun to grow in the Middle Ages under the enlightened aegis of the town’s Catholic archbishops. They had pursued the twin policies of physically protecting the town’s prosperity with the construction of the massive Hohensalzburg Fortress above the city in 1077, while encouraging the application of Salzburg’s wealth toward the establishment of a university and creation of architectural monuments.

In the 17th century, construction began on the baroque cathedral that, along with the Hohensalzburg Fortress, is the signature building of the city. By then, it seems as though Salzburg had reached an expectant state of completion, awaiting the arrival of some grand event, which Mozart’s birth turned out to be.

If Mozart’s genius turned his birthplace in a musical haven – Salzburg seems to have more good itinerant musicians per square kilometer than any other town on earth – the city has other things to offer in abundance. Its mix of baroque, Renaissance, Gothic, medieval and Roman architecture begs for casual strolls along the town’s narrow streets that inevitably lead to major plazas and squares. The climate is mild in the non-winter months, and the town is festooned with parks, planters and flower boxes, and gardens along the Salzach River. Some travelers say Salzburg is still a Roman town in that it combines Mediterranean love of art and color with a southern Germanic cheerfulness and discreet efficiency.

Geographically, Salzburg is a gateway to the Alps and their spectacular high country. The city’s people are very affectionate toward their own local alpine peaks, Mönchsberg, Festungsberg and Kapuzinerberg, all accessible by road or funicular. Just south and west of the city lie the Bavarian Alps, including Berchtesgaden, the alpine valley whose great beauty was once besmirched because it held the infamous country retreat Hitler used to escape Berlin’s dank climate. Munich is 50 air miles to the west, and to the east and southeast are dozens of small alpine lakes and hamlets.

In 1996, UNESCO declared Salzburg a World Heritage City, an honor that joins it to, among others, Jerusalem, Kyoto, Machu Picchu, Salamanca and Bath as one of the great cities of mankind.

In 2002, Salzburg is planning an exuberant array of cultural festivals, including its annual Easter Festival in late March, the River Festival-Water Festival in late June, international choir and orchestra festival in late June, “SommerSZENE” international modern dance, theater and music festival in July, the summer-long Mozart Dinner Concerts, the July festival at Hellbrunn park and palace, and the culminating Salzburg Festival in August.

In many ways Salzburg is a dream of a city. It combines the best spirit of two great cultures – Germanic and Mediterranean – in a spectacular natural setting, gracing nature with its own artful blend of epochs and architectures. The urban area’s population of 220,000 is large enough to sustain to rich cultural life, and small enough to please with its lack of coarseness and hurry. And the pastries are sensational. If your vacation dreams include any of these criteria, give Mozart’s birthplace some consideration.