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 The holidays are coming and with
this celebration comes a renewed interest in chocolate. While most of us
traditionally think of sweets when we want to give something special to that
special someone, Discover Paris! suggests that it can be just as romantic to
huddle and cuddle over an exceptional pot of hot chocolate. We present some of
our favorite places for chocolate chaud below.
La Charlotte en L’Isle on the Ile Saint-Louis is a curious combination of
children’s theater, chocolate shop and tea salon. Proprietor Sylvie Langlet has
provided puppet shows, molded chocolates and a wide variety of teas in this tiny
shop for 30 years. The salon’s two small rooms are pleasantly and whimsically
cluttered; the disorder and an upright piano in the front room give the
impression that you are visiting the home of an eccentric aunt. The
establishment is entirely non-smoking.
As for the hot chocolate, it is a connoisseur’s dream! If you can imagine
drinking a melted chocolate bar, you will have a good idea of what your
experience at La Charlotte en L’Isle will be. Mme Langlet’s hot chocolate is
made with milk, but only enough to allow the mixture to liquefy. Dark, smooth
and unctuous, the chocolate coats the petite ceramic cups in which it is served.
A pitcher of chocolate, cups and a serving of water (presented in a chiseled
carafe) are brought to the table on a tray from which you serve yourself. There
is no additional milk provided with which to dilute the chocolate – so if you
prefer a thin version of this brew, La Charlotte may not be the place for you.
After this treat, if you would really like to indulge yourself and your
sweetheart further, peruse Mme Langlet’s selection of homemade chocolates and
purchase some to take home. Candied orange peel coated in dark chocolate, solid
dark chocolate mice, piglets, swans and other fanciful creatures, and truffles
are displayed in the storefront window.
Le Rostand, on place Edmond Rostand in the 6th arrondissement,
takes a different approach to its hot chocolate. You receive a traditional cup
with a dose of chocolate syrup in the bottom. The walls of the cup have been
"painted" with the chocolate so that the cup resembles a chocolate tulip. A
pitcher of steamed milk is presented alongside, and you pour as much or as
little of it as you like into your chocolate. Stir and you have a rich, smooth
hot chocolate, made to order. The chocolate is flavored with a small amount of
vanilla, as witnessed by the grains of vanilla bean that you will find in your
cup after you have finished savoring your beverage.
The only potential disadvantage with this method of serving hot chocolate is
that you are served a greater volume of milk than chocolate. If you like potent
hot chocolate, you end up with lots of milk left over. If you are a steamed milk
aficionado however, you will likely be quite happy.
Le Rostand’s sidewalk terrace offers a splendid view of the Luxembourg Garden,
the comings and goings of people from all walks of life, and the photographic
exhibits sponsored by the Sénat that are displayed on the garden’s wrought iron
gates. In the winter, the heated terrace is enclosed and divided by thick, clear
plastic sheets. Half of it is designated as non-smoking.
If you are interested in purchasing chocolate bonbons after your hot chocolate
experience at Le Rostand, just pop over to Dalloyau, two doors away on
place Edmond Rostand. This boutique is part of the Dalloyau chain of gourmet
shops founded in 1802. Dalloyau sells roughly 55 tons of chocolate at its
various outlets each year.
Over on the Right Bank, two establishments are "absolute musts" for chocoholics.
Angelina, facing the Tuileries Garden on rue de Rivoli, is a venerable
institution. Its famous "Chocolat Africain" is perhaps the thickest and richest
in the city. The service is traditional – a pitcher of chocolate and cups
inscribed with "Angelina"; stemmed glasses, each with a single ice cube; a
pitcher of water and a small mountain of crème chantilly are brought to
your table. The chocolate is dark, but surprisingly sweet. Because of the
sweetness, we found the water to be a welcome part of the service. With a
generous dollop of whipped cream mixed into your cup, you can easily imagine
that you are drinking warmed chocolate ice cream!
Non-smokers can enjoy their chocolate in a dedicated area at the rear of the
dining room. A small but eye-catching display of chocolates (including giant
truffles) is located at the entry to the dining room, so it is possible to
purchase a bit of chocolate heaven when you are ready to leave.
Less than a five minute walk from Angelina is Jean-Paul Hévin, located on
rue Saint-Honoré. Hévin has made a name for himself as one of the city’s premier
chocolatiers. On the ground floor, you find the boutique, which is slick
and minimalist and looks more like a jewelry store than a chocolate shop.
Upstairs is the salon de thé, divided into two areas of roughly equal
size for smokers and non-smokers. The décor is similar to that of the boutique –
dark, wood-grained walls are hung with beautiful photos of the confections that
you can purchase downstairs. Brown tables and sturdy wicker chairs complete the
interior design scheme that evokes chocolate and nuts. Classical music plays
softly in the background as you contemplate the menu that is replete with
chocolate pastries.
Steaming hot chocolate is served in individual classic white porcelain pitchers
and cups. A bowl of brown and white lumps of sugar is presented alongside, but
water is not part of the service. The chocolat chaud is everything one
would expect from a master chocolate maker – full bodied, rich, and very
slightly sweet.


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