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Germany’s Old World Christmas Markets

By Bernd Nagy, VIP-Alpine Tours

The celebration of “Advent” – the season before Christmas – is rooted in traditions dating back hundreds of years in Europe’s Alpine countries. During advent, modern Germany, holding steadfastly onto Old World traditions, transforms itself into a Christmas fairytale setting. The sights and sensations of the Christmas season are everywhere: Locals and guests savor the tastes of chocolate covered Lebkuchen (gingerbread), heavily sugar powdered Stollen (fruit cake), sizzling grilled veal sausages, spiced hot “Glueh” wine (mulled wine) and of course, marzipan, in all sizes and shapes, made from finest ingredients including almonds and sugar.

Besides Christmas foods, people delight in fresh snow, festively decorated trees, ornate hand-carved crèches, colorful hand-blown glass ornaments, traditional incense smoker figurines and nutcrackers. They also enjoy the sounds of open-air organ music concerts, jingling sleigh bells and caroling.

All these signs of  Advent make it no wonder that Germany has become increasingly popular with U.S. travelers who journey during late November and December to the “Old World” to experience Die Vorweihnachtszeit (pre-Christmas time) and the traditional Christmas markets scattered throughout Germany.

The Spirit of Christmas surrounds you when you arrive at the Munich International Airport. From the moment you land, you are greeted with Christmas music, brightly decorated displays, and aromas of Christmas pastries. You might even catch a glimpse of the red-cloaked Saint Nicholas with his following of giggling, wide-eyed children. There is even a new Christmas Market and an ice skating rink. Remember, you’re still just at the airport!

As you leave the airport, you might delight in freshly fallen snow that has transformed your route into a winter wonderland. Thousands of people gather every year in Munich’s Marienplatz, in the heart of the city, when Herr Burgermeister (the mayor) formally opens the Christmas Market on the Saturday before the first day of Advent. A giant Christmas tree, up to 90 feet high, stands majestically in front of the famous Rathaus (town hall) and sparkles in the radiance of more than 2,500 lights. Its festive glow shines over hundreds of booths offering wooden toys, candles, and nostalgic Bavarian Christmas decorations. While visiting the town center you might enjoy a Mass Bier at the nearby Hofbrauhaus Restaurant and listen to the brass bands dressed in traditional lederhosen.

Just a two-hour drive north of Munich is Nuremberg, with the world’s best-known Christkindl (Christ Child) market visited by more than 2 million people every year. Located inside this medieval city’s walls and on the market square around the St. Lorenz Church, the Christkindl market has survived in its original state until the present day with specialty stalls and booths, and cultural events throughout the Advent Season. Nuremberg’s street lamp posts are festooned with Christmas symbols, garlands of natural fir and colored lights. Every year the Christkindl, a pretty girl with golden hair in a white angel outfit, officially opens the Christmas market from a large stage, and local boys’ choirs sing songs of the season.

Some specialties are unique to Nuremberg. I fell in love with the nutcrackers and Zwetschgenmaennle (decorated figurines made from dried prunes) sold by dirndl-clad ladies from their colorful booths. Of course the Nuremberger Lebkuchen (gingerbread), as well as the original Nurnberger Wuerstle (small grilled pork sausages), are known worldwide.

Medieval Rothenburg

To the west of the Frankonian countryside is one of my favorite places, the medieval city of Rothenburg, Germany’s best-preserved medieval town. As you stroll the cobblestone streets, you are spellbound by the city’s 700-year-old charm. The quaint buildings with the original half- timbered walls and the town hall square are lined with festively decorated booths. A must see location in Rothenburg is Kathy Wohlfahrts famous Christmas Village and Store, brimming with gifts for you to take or send home to your loved ones.

You can spend hours strolling around town visiting the booths and shops or might just want to sit back and enjoy coffee and cake while observing the passing visitors and shoppers from all over the world. For a breathtaking view of the town, climb the stairs to the top of the wall, which fortified Rothenburg in ancient times. Take a stroll with the night watchman in the evening. With his historic garb and chant, he takes you back hundreds of years in the city’s history.

If your trip to Europe takes you to Frankfurt, take time to visit this city’s large Christmas market, featuring hundred of interesting stalls and carousels for entertaining the young at heart. At the historic Roemer Square in the inner city and just footsteps from the River Main, visit the teddy bear shop there and take time for a fabulous lunch at Frankfurt’s oldest remaining rustic restaurant just inside of the Christmas market area.

Only an hour’s drive south of Frankfurt is the historic University city of Heidelberg on the River Neckar. The town’s mighty ancient castle ruin overlooks it and Germany’s longest car-free shopping alley, which ends at the Cathedral Square. The Christmas market booths around the cathedral feature many local artists and craftsmen displaying their goods for sale.

This city holds a unique charm, so you’ll know why so many sing, “I lost my heart in Heidelberg.” In fact, you might even be able to join in singing it by ending the day with a traditional German dinner at the local Red Ox Restaurant, an old and interestingly decorated historic student tavern.

There are many important German Christmas markets, and all of them have their own charms. Almost all local Christmas markets are conveniently located in the city or town square.

In the Eastern part of Germany you will enjoy Leipzig and Dresden, which have two of Germany’s oldest established Christmas markets. A major attraction at Dresden’s Christmas market is a giant wooden Christmas pyramid with candlelights in the center of the city square. This area is also famous for featuring local Mountain crafts, including crèches, incense smokers, nutcrackers, wooden toys and ornaments. Don’t leave town without tasting the world famous Dresdner Stollen, a delicious sugar-powdered fruitcake, great with a cup of coffee.

In the Swabian south are Stuttgart and Augsburg in Bavaria, with their long traditions of featuring festively decorated booths with fine local crafts from the surrounding areas.

On your way toward the Austrian Alps, stop by the Passion Play village of Oberammergau, which is famous for its many woodcarving and crystal shops, hand-painted alpine house facades and a Christmas store where you can stock up with unique Christmas decorations.

Return home with Old World crafts, gifts and collectibles for your loved ones and wonderful memories from your Christmas Market Tour.

Frohe Weihnachten!