By Rachel Kaplan, French Links Tours

Best Buys to French Chic, by Rachel Kaplan, French Links Tours

I first discovered the joys of shopping and window-shopping in Paris in 1967 when I was all of 12 years old, and now almost a half-century later, I am confirmed believer that there’s no city like this one for great shopping, whether it’s for clothing, home furnishings, antiques or art.

Even if you never buy anything during a trip to Paris – and knowing most people that’s highly improbable – you are bound to find that this is the most refined and sophisticated city in the world. That’s an opinion that has been true at least since the 18^th century, when France’s queens and mistresses used to come up from Versailles, to shop for the finest laces, jewels and bibelots.

At the end of the American Revolution, those Yankees who were lucky enough to make a financial “killing” in the war through supplying Washington’s Continental Army later sailed back to “old Europe” knowing that this is where they would find the loveliest French frocks, clocks and antiques. If you ever visit Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, you will discover that our nation’s third president was an expert when it came to shopping in Paris, whether it was for wine or for antiques. However, we all know that the most famous American shopper in Paris was the late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis – to prove the point, the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, next to the Louvre, is featuring a selection of the French couture designs and accessories by Chanel and Dior, that Mrs. Kennedy wore when she was America’s First Lady. She knew where to find the best, and had the means to pay for it.

What I most love about shopping in Paris is that it’s a city that offers something for everyone. You can just as easily buy regional French pottery, olive oil soaps, organic wines as you can buy art and antiques. Best of all, you don’t have to be a Kennedy or a war profiteer to find something you will love and cherish.

My favorite store in Paris is Monoprix, a clean, well-lit, moderately priced retail chain that sells everything from funky costume jewelry and hair accessories to lavender water for making your freshly pressed clothes smell divine. Not only do I swear by Monoprix for my kitchen and bathroom gear – the great Sir Terence Conran has a designed a terrific line of housewares – but I also love its lingerie, hair accessories, costume jewelry, and soaps, not to mention makeup and skincare products.

My fondness for this chain began when I first moved to France in 1994, when I was living on a restricted budget. It was at Monoprix that I found charming throw pillows covered with an Eiffel Tower Dufy-like print, and blue, white and yellow ceramic dishes that were both cheap and highly decorative. Both did wonders to cheer up a rather drab studio apartment. You can keep Louis Vuitton, Prada, and all the other name-dropping brands – Monoprix gets my vote and a good chunk of my household budget.

If you do hanker after an elegant Hermès scarf or a quilted Chanel bag, but don’t have the budget to splurge on either one, don’t despair. Instead, head for one of the city’s many dépot-ventes (designer resale shops or consignment stores) where you will find both for less than half-price in mint condition, if not spanking new. This is where I have purchased Hermès squares for less than $90, and where my customers have found pristine Chanel sweater sets and Yves Saint-Laurent outerwear for a fraction of their original retail price. How do these shops get their stock? Simple – they depend on the rich ladies of Paris who either tire quickly of an item or who are strapped for cash. Since you can’t return gifts or other goods to the store where they were purchased – that’s unthinkable in France you bring them to the dépot-vente. Once the item is sold, the same rich ladies pocket 50 percent of the sale, and leave the remainder with the shopkeeper. Note: not all dépot-ventes are created equal. If you’re short on time, be sure to go with a personal shopper who can ferret out the best deals for you.

Huge Discounts Twice a Year

For those of us who still want to buy only the latest Dior, Chanel or Prada styles, Paris is still a shopper’s paradise compared with other cities. For one thing, if you come twice a year, in January or in July, you can take advantage of 50-70% discounts on many designer items. Add a 12% tax rebate to your purchase, and you have really made a difference in your clothing allowance! Know that most of the items you will find on sale are the trendy pieces – basics are never put on sale because they sell year-round. That’s something you need to know ahead of time.

Personally, I think it’s more fun to shop at those retail outlets known mainly to the French, that are off the beaten track. For instance, I love shopping on the Rue de Passy in the 16^th arrondissement where I have my favorite home store, Casa, my favorite women’s specialty store, Frank & Fils, and my favorite discount designer handbag and luggage store, Anna Tuill. You can really do some serious damage here.

Nor do I limit my shopping forays to traditional shopping venues. I love to visit the city’s bi-weekly neighborhood markets. At one of them in Neuilly-sur-Seine, at the gates of Paris, I came across a lovely hand-embroidered tablecloth and matching napkins for very little money, and hand-painted porcelain salt and pepper shakers. A few stalls away, I picked up two sexy Lycra V-neck tops.

At another market near the Eiffel Tower, I have helped guests acquire some practical and lightweight luggage – handy for taking your purchases home – and also found some lovely pashminas imported directly from Nepal.

Markets are also great places to buy breads, cheeses, and fruits for picnics, which you can then enjoy with a bottle of wine in a nearby park. Forgot your corkscrew? The markets also sell a wide array of kitchen gadgets.

On a recent visit to New York City, I couldn’t help but notice how many French retailers were flourishing on Madison Avenue and in Soho: Cécile Jeanne, Agnès B, Anne Fontaine, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaulthier, Sonia Rykiel, and even Caron Perfumes. No wonder. It’s clear, that despite our political differences, few can disagree that Paris remains a mecca for style and chic. And best of all, you don’t have to be rich to own a piece of it. Perhaps that’s the fundamental reason why Paris remains my favorite city for shopping.