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Volume 6, May 2004 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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Cool, Crowd-Free Continent
By
Matthew Brumley,
Earthbound Expeditions Inc. |
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While traveling to Europe in the summer can be a rewarding
experience, I have always preferred the continent's big cities in the middle of
winter. The reason is simple and perhaps a bit selfish: You can have the
magnificent capitals of Europe all to yourself. During the peak summer months, the crowds form endlessly long
lines to see Europe’s top museums. In the off season, on the other hand,
you’ll be pleasantly surprised to arrive at your favorite gallery in Paris,
Vienna or Rome to find lines and crowds non-existent. Once inside, you’ll have an entire room, filled with Old
World European masterpieces, to enjoy practically by yourself. Imagine being
able to fix your eyes upon a work by Rubens or a Rafael without being bumped
into or otherwise annoyed by the constant stream of large tour groups. This is
the real Europe cherished by locals and loved by savvy travelers. The benefits of winter travel are greater than just beating
the crowds. Music lovers can enjoy an abundance of melodic events not generally
offered during the summer, without the guilt of missing an evening sunset.
Recently, on a two-week winter trip to Vienna, Budapest and Prague, my
wife and I enjoyed, on average, two musical events per day. Often, we would visit a museum in the morning, have lunch
with the locals in a café and then enjoy a concert in a 17th century
baroque church. Our afternoons would be spent strolling the back alleyways. In
the evening, we would head out for a performance at the local State Opera House,
where we would enjoy La Boheme or Tosca
for a mere $30.
Traveling from November 30 to January 1 can be even more
rewarding in Central Europe when you consider the abundance of festive Christmas
markets. Every city, town and village has its own version of the traditional
Christmas market. For example, in Vienna there are no less than five different
Christmas markets spread across the face of the city. As you walk through her
festively decorated streets, you will see a collection of Christmas stalls,
encircled by locals enjoying mugs of hot spiced wine. Instead of beer gardens,
the great meeting place in December tends to be the well-lit evening winter
market, where kids run free and parents and friends enjoy each other’s company
under richly decorated trees.
This is another excellent reason to travel off-season. Locals
clearly tend to behave differently towards travelers during the winter months.
Naturally, without the steady stream of tourists entering their shops and
restaurants, citizens tend to be warmer, less rushed and more likely to spend a
minute or two having a conversation. The mood, ambiance and feel of each city changes in the
winter. There is a charming stillness in the air, which provides travelers a
glimpse into the soul of a city not often discovered in the hurried summer
months. Streets become open-air festivals, where you may leisurely partake and
participate in the rhythm of winter life. Café life is also a big part of off-season travel. One of my
favorite past times is to buy the International Herald Tribune and sit
for a leisurely hour in a quaint café. There I can enjoy not only the day’s
news, but also witness the chatter of a city and its people as they awaken. Central Europeans take their coffee seriously. It was in
Vienna that Europe’s coffeehouses were born, after the defeated Turkish army
left sacks of coffee beans on the outskirts of Vienna as they fled the city. In
the 19th century, Viennese cafés were popular meeting places, where
politics, philosophy and literature were discussed and debated. Winter travel can also be rewarding for your pocketbook.
Airfare and hotel rates are lowest during the off season. It is not uncommon to
hear of airfares to Europe from the Unites States for $500 roundtrip. Hotels
also often discount their rates up to 50%. Great music, cozy cafés, festive Christmas markets and empty museums all add up to a great time when you visit Europe in the cool months of winter. Speaking of cold, be warned: average temperatures in December can be in the 30's, so don’t forget to bring your thermal underwear. And remember, as our Austrian guide quipped, "Zhere is no bad veather… just poorly dressed people.”
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