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Volume 6, May 2004 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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The Sarawak Rainforest World Music Festival |
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Unlike
so many music festivals, which compress crowds into industrial amphitheaters,
SRWMF allowed music lovers to enjoy the resounding rhythms in the heart of the
one of the world's oldest rainforests, and specifically in a living museum
dedicated to preserving the indigenous cultures of Borneo. The
17-acre Sarawak Cultural Village served as the venue for the two-day event, so
the typical cramped concert experience remained nonexistent. Situated below
imposing Mt. Santubong at the edge of the South China Sea, the village provided
an interesting location that lacked a touristy ambiance. Unlike
other festivals, which usually have one of two stages of constant stage
performances, this festival allowed music fans to choose from a variety of
daytime workshops, mini recitals, master classes and interactive ethnomusicology
lectures in the afternoon. They took place in cozy daytime venues – longhouses
(which look just what they sound like) and traditional native dwellings – that
allowed fans to gather closely. The
intimate surroundings brought fans together and the musical energy often brought
smiles to the crowd. The joyful mood often became infectious, and soon small
gatherings would break into clapping, and sometimes dancing. The bands got into
the groove as impromptu jam sessions often broke out with one band joining
another. After
the set ended, the uplifting mood continued as the crowd mingled with the bands.
There was no rock star mentality here. The festival provided a great chance to
strike up a conversation with band members and locals. I learned about various
instruments and influences after rapping with the musicians. And
they even signed autographs. Many
of the bands I describe below will return to this year’s festival, When the
sun went down, the various groups hit the main indoor stage and the outdoor
stage and each band or performer performed for about 30 minutes. The music
filled the air until around midnight. It's was worth sticking around. Last year
the high-octane Scottish band Shooglenifty, which blends traditional Celtic
music with modern grooves, wouldn't even let a tropical downpour (it is a
rainforest) dampen the festivities. Their electric fiddler scorched the strings
as the rains came down and drenched the crowd. I joined a mass of people who hit
the dirt dance floor, and joined in a muddy, but festive, dance.
Another
crowd favorite was Los Laneros, who specialized in music of the Llanos
(savannahs) along the Orinoco River in Colombia. It was a rare treat to hear
this authentic style outside of the Llanos, as it remains one of that region’s
special secrets. The group Börte arrived from the other end of the world
(Mongolia) and wowed the crowd. Their falsetto lead singer and their unusual
instruments, such as a horsehair string instrument, provided a mesmerizing
sound. I
made sure not to miss The Ensemble, which brought its stellar international
reputation from nearby Vietnam. The pair of Hoang Ngoc Bich and Ho Khac Chi had
traditional orchestra backgrounds but played uncommon instruments. Chi created
remarkable sounds on the dan bau, a one-string zither. Bich added the
sounds of the ko ni, a two-string stick fiddle where the strings are
attached to a disk that is held in the mouth. As
for local talent, there were many Sarawak groups which also appeared. Sayu Ateng
used instruments that sometimes only appear in museums. They also used
traditional Borneo brass gongs, a distinctive string instrument called the sape,
and several historic drums. It was a great opportunity to check out the sound of
instruments that are rarely heard these days. Of course the festival provided other distractions such as food stalls that offered local Sarawakian treats and handicraft booths. If you needed a tattoo, Setona Ali Adam would create henna tattoos (or permanent Orang Ula tattoos) in her own stall when she wasn’t playing.
When Keith isn't jamming to tunes in Malaysia he sometimes finds time to work on his screenplays and TV pilots. He contributes to Conde Nast Traveler, Budget Travel, The Christian Science Monitor and several other publications. |
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