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Irish Traditional Music On the Dingle Peninsula

By Feargal Mac Amhlaoibh, The Celtic Traveler

An expression of praise for any feat in Corca Dhuibhne, the West Kerry Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking area) is “Mo cheol thú!” – “You are my music!” –an indication of the indigenous place music has in the life of the area.

Both instrumental music and song have a long tradition on the Dingle Peninsula. In recent times with the increasing international interest in Irish traditional music, the area has become a Mecca for traditional music lovers to the extent that many bands of roving musicians have come to settle in the area and have blended their talents with those of the local native musicians.

For many years the music tradition of the area concentrated on the dance tunes played for the West Kerry Set Dance – mainly polkas, slides and sometimes horn pipes. The polka set, as it is commonly known, shares its music with the Sliabh Luachra area of North Kerry and with parts of the Limerick where polka sets are the traditional dances.

There are many “local” polkas and slides that have now become an integral part of the tradition, notably those which were played by Muiris Ó Dálaigh (1910-1990) of Dún Chaoin, a native of the Blasket Islands, as well as many others who have passed on, such as Seán Coughlan and Tomás Mac Gearailt. Many of these tunes now form part of a collection of polkas, slides, and slow airs published by myself and Con Durham in the now out-of-print An Pota Stóir (1994).

The Kerry Polka has now reached the international stage with the famous duo performances of Séamus Begley, and Steve Cooney. But there are many other local musicians carrying on this tradition in their native area, such as Maidhc Dainin Ó Sé, Breandán Begley, Tommy O’Connor, Michéal Herily, John Benny Moriarty, Áine Uí Laoithe, Maurice Mckenna, Padraig Ó Sé and  Michelle Curran-Ó Sé.

All the above-named musicians are box-players (button accordion), and this has been generally regarded as the main musical instrument of the area since its introduction from Italy via America by returned Irish emigrant musicians in the early years of the 20th century. Prior to then, the uilleann pipes, fiddle, and flute were the only instruments used by local musicians, as evidenced in the writings and collected tunes of James Goodman, himself a piper and flutist.

While the fiddle continued in a secondary role to “the box,” the uilleann pipes and flute all but disappeared from the area. A new generation of musicians is presently blooming in the area, playing a variety of instruments including fiddle, flute, whistle, guitar, box, bodhran and concertina.

While sessions of music, song and dance continue to be held in private houses and in various other venues throughout the area, the pub is the usual place where a visitor can experience these events. Musical pub sessions are at their height during the summer months. During the off season, Dingle offers music on most evenings, notably at An Droichead Beag, Mac Cárthaigh’s, Flaherty’s and at An Chonair, where singing and set dancing are particularly encouraged.

The Hillgrove Hotel has a set dancing evening every Thursday throughout the year, and tigh Bhric in Riasc near Ballyferriter has a now well established open session of music and song every Friday night throughout the year – with the exception of Good Friday, when the session is brought forward to Thursday. Most gigs will welcome visiting musicians who wish to join them, but as any musician familiar with the traditional scene will appreciate, this should be “played by ear!”

A more up-market traditional evening of formal music, song, and open set and formation dancing is presented on Tuesdays in the Dingle Skellig Hotel during the summer season, where the limited bar facilities will not interfere with the performance of the players and the pleasure of the listeners. And evenings of excellent music and song are presented in St James’ Church of Ireland on Wednesdays and Sundays.