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Volume 8, March 2006

ISSN 1538-893X

The Artistic Heritage of Old Lyme

By Tammi Flynn, The Florence Griswold Museum

Childe Hassam, The Ledges, Old Lyme, Connecticut, 1907. The Florence Griswold Museum

It can be argued that no small town in America has an artistic heritage as strong and venerable as Old Lyme, Connecticut. It began over one hundred years ago, when the Barbizon painter Henry Ward Ranger arrived at Miss Florence Griswold’s Lyme Street boarding house in the summer of 1899. Ranger was shortly followed by other New York painters, many of whom trained in Paris, and the Lyme Art Colony was born. It was to become known as the country’s most important art colony in the early years of the 20th century.

The 1903 arrival of Childe Hassam shifted the focus from Barbizon and Tonalist painting to Impressionism, the genre which soon became synonymous with Old Lyme and Florence Griswold’s boarding house. Drawn to Old Lyme by its bucolic fields and woodlands, its rivers and the Long Island Sound, and its historic houses, Impressionist painters flocked to the area to board with Miss Florence and, later on, to establish permanent residences in the area.

In 1914, the Impressionist artists formed the Lyme Art Association, with annual summer exhibitions held at Old Lyme’s Phoebe Griffin Noyes library. As the Art Association grew in both stature and volume, it commissioned the renowned architect Charles Platt to design a permanent exhibition gallery on Lyme Street. The land was sold to the Association for $1.00 by Miss Florence Griswold, and the gallery was completed in 1921, with Miss Florence as its first manager. It is the only art gallery in the country whose construction was totally financed by member artists.

An Art-Lover’s Dream

Here in this serene inlet at the mouth of the Connecticut River, early 20th century Impressionist artists from New York and Boston sought refuge from the trials of city life. Much of the character that drew painters to the area over a century ago remains today. The Congregational Church, made famous by Childe Hassam’s paintings, still stands at the end of Lyme Street. Meandering roads and wooded lanes open to picturesque views, any of which could have been a painting spot immortalized on canvas by Willard Metcalf or William Chadwick.

Now the town also offers an array of charming art galleries, specialty stores, and antique shops. Delightful inns cater to visitors’ needs and restaurants tempt their palates. At the heart of town’s artistic legacy is the Florence Griswold Museum, the "Home of American Impressionism." As the historic home of the Lyme Art Colony, the Museum and its grounds offer visitors a unique experience.

A Connecticut Lady and her Bohemian Boys

How did a generation of American artists wind up in Old Lyme? Besides the fact that there was no loss of subject matter to chose from, the artists found perfect accommodations with the kindred bohemian spirit of Florence Griswold. Left with little means to maintain her family home, “Miss Florence” had opened her doors to boarders in 1899. Artists began to appear and over the next decade turned her stately 1817 house into the home of the Lyme Art Colony, where noted names in American Impressionism created some of their best works.

 
Bermuda South Shore, William Chadwick. The Florence Griswold Museum


No Where Else in America

The artists left Miss Florence, and generations of art lovers, something very special - paintings on the walls and doors of the Griswold House. The tradition was imported from hostelries in the French art colonies of Barbizon, Giverny, and Pont-Aven. The most breathtaking example is found in the dining room, with 40 paintings by over 30 artists, a complete chronicle of the art colony movement in America.

A New Center for American Art

Today, visitors not only enjoy touring the historic home and Miss Florence’s gardens; they spend their time viewing paintings by America’s premier artists in the Museum’s new riverfront gallery, with changing exhibitions that invite return visits. The new Krieble Gallery has propelled the Museum into a national destination. The recently opened 10,000 square foot gallery building by Centerbrook Architects adds a twentieth century perspective with three skylit galleries flanked by striking, curvilinear metal wings overlooking Miss Florence’s garden and the Lieutenant River.

The Museum has one of the foremost collections of Impressionism in America, with major works by Childe Hassam and John Henry Twachtman, and the largest collection of Willard Metcalf paintings anywhere. Changing exhibitions offer audiences the finest American art dating from the late 18th century to the present.

Old Lyme Today: Where Art Lives

The tradition that started in Old Lyme at the turn of the last century lives on today, with the Florence Griswold Museum, the Lyme Art Association, the Lyme Academy College of Fine Arts, and several private art Galleries, most notably the Cooley Gallery. Lyme Impressionist paintings can also be seen at the Phoebe Griffin Noyes Library, the Old Lyme First Congregational Church, the Old Lyme Town Hall, and two of the town’s most popular historic inns, the Old Lyme Inn and the Bee & Thistle Inn.

The Old Lyme Art Alliance

In 2003, the Florence Griswold Museum, the Lyme Art Association, the Lyme Academy College of Fine Arts, and the Cooley Gallery got together to form a collaborative group, which was named the Old Lyme Art Alliance. Profiles of the members follow:

The Florence Griswold Museum: This National Historic Landmark, home of the Lyme Art Colony from 1899 to the 1930’s, is located in the heart of Old Lyme. The Museum’s campus includes the 1817 Griswold House, a boarding house frequented by the American Impressionists beginning at the turn of the last century.

Situated on eleven acres by the Lieutenant River, the Museum has one of the foremost collections of Impressionism in America, with major works by Childe Hassam and John Henry Twachtman among many others, and the largest collection of Willard Metcalf paintings in the world. With the 2002 addition of the Krieble Gallery, the Museum’s collection represents some of the finest works by American artists who lived or worked in Connecticut and spans a period of 150 years from the late 18th to the early 20th centuries.

The mission of the Florence Griswold Museum is to inspire and educate a diverse audience on Connecticut’s art, history and landscape, with special emphasis on the Lyme Art Colony. Related to this mission, the Museum offers frequently changing art and history exhibitions, educational programs for both children and adults, an extensive archival collection for scholars, and recreated historic gardens. The Museum first opened in 1947.

The Lyme Academy College of Fine Art: Founded in 1976, the Lyme Academy is New England’s only independent College of Fine Arts and one of only three such accredited schools nationwide dedicated exclusively to traditional education in the fine arts.

The College features two galleries, the Chauncey Stillman Gallery and The Sill House Gallery, both free and open to the public. The galleries carry traveling exhibitions, and one-person and thematic exhibits, as well as showing the work of faculty, students and alumni, all of which are for sale.

The mission of the College is to preserve and promote the western traditions of drawing, painting, printmaking and sculpture by providing educational opportunities that meet the highest standard of academic and artistic excellence. The College grants a BFA degree, three year Certificate and Post Baccalaureate Certificate; it serves one hundred full-time and one hundred part-time students, and has an extensive summer program.

The Lyme Art Association: Opened in 1921 as a permanent exhibition home for the Lyme Art Colony Impressionist artists who boarded with Miss Florence Griswold, the Lyme Art Association continues as a vibrant art center open to the public with free admission. Professional as well as developing artists mount major exhibitions throughout the year and form the core of the Art Association, which now boasts over 850 members.

The mission of the Lyme Art Association is to advance the cause of representational fine arts by owning, maintaining, and preserving an historic building and galleries in Old Lyme, holding art exhibitions, and conducting educational programs for the benefit of the local community and the general public. In addition to its frequently changing exhibitions, the Association offers studio art classes year-round, with emphasis on the individual student’s creative development and growth. Classes are offered for students of all ages, skills and experience.

The Cooley Gallery: Established in 1981, The Cooley Gallery is a commercial art gallery in Old Lyme’s historic district, specializing in fine American paintings and works on paper of the 19th and early 20th Centuries, as well as select Contemporary Realist art.

The gallery exhibits, for sale, works of The Hudson River School, Connecticut and American Impressionism, the American Barbizon school, and always a few interesting surprises. Housed in an historic building on Lyme Street, they offer four light filled picture galleries of art and sculpture with regularly changing special exhibitions. The gallery is owned and operated by Jeffrey W. Cooley, who is a charter trustee and major supporter of the Florence Griswold Museum.

The Old Lyme Art Alliance envisions itself growing and evolving over time, to realize a long-term goal of making the public aware of Old Lyme’s focus on art, past and present.

Spend the Day, Spend the Weekend

The Old Lyme Inn and The Bee and Thistle Inn are consistently highly ranked in travel guides for their restaurants and accommodations. The Cooley Gallery is considered a preeminent purveyor of American art, the Lyme Academy College of Fine Arts graduates some of tomorrow’s top artists, and the Lyme Art Association is the longest continually operating art association run by professional artists in the country. A stroll down historic Lyme Street gives visitors a study in American Colonial architecture with homes grand and modest, boutiques, antiques shops, and an ice cream parlor. Shore Road offers nature lovers a chance to connect with wildlife and natural areas along the Connecticut River Valley and Long Island Sound.

Old Lyme is the gateway to spectacular side trips. Old Saybrook and Essex, Connecticut are a hop across the Connecticut River and feature shopping and attractions like the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat and the Connecticut River Museum.

The artists who founded the Lyme Art Colony were in search of rest and renewal as well as inspiration. A century later, travelers in their footsteps still find the same in the remarkable town of Old Lyme.
 

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