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Isola Comacini: Lake Como, A Curse, and Cuisine

By Shirley Moskow

It may be difficult to believe that the solitary little island slumbering serenely in northern Italy’s beautiful Lake Como could be cursed. Yet, local legend is borne out by Isola Comacini’s bloody history. Since the time of the ancient Romans and through World War II, this speck of land has suffered as invading armies claimed it first for one country then another. Now, however, Chef Benvenuto Puricelli believes that he has exorcised the evil spirits.

Puricelli seems an unlikely savior. Tall and thin with dark hair and angular features, he looks less like a knight in shining amor than an overgrown pixie. He favors the local costume: plaid vest over billowing white shirt, open at the neck, and peaked striped knit hat topped with a loose yarn pompom that jiggles when he moves.

In 1976, after an apprenticeship at the Palace Hotel of St. Moritz, Switzerland, and having served as head chef at London’s Playboy Club, Puricelli decided to open his own restaurant not far fhom the village of Saia Comacina, where he was born. As luck would have it, the only restaurant on Isola Comacina happened to be for sale at the time. Some might call it back luck. But Puricelli is an optimist. He envisioned wonderful possibilities.

He knew that the island is an attractive daytrip destination for international guests who frequent the many grand hotels that frame the banks of Lake Como. Also, the island is easily reached by water taxis that ply the lake, commonly called Lake Lario in this part of Italy. In addition to offering travelers ancient Greek ruins and scenic walking paths, the island is home to an artists’ colony.

Still, Puricelli, like the other villagers, knew about the 800-year-old spell. In 1169, Vidulfo, Bishop of Como, has decreed, “Island, be thou cursed throughout the years!”

Until that time Isola Comacini had been an oasis of peace and quiet, the perfect place for meditation and prayer. Saint Abone found refuge on Isola Comacina when he returned from the missions of Constantinople. He later brought the Saint Euphenia cult to the island. They were followed by Saint Agrippa, Bishop of Como, and Saint Domenica. Refugees also found a haven on the island. In those bygone days, Isola Comacina was so peaceful that it was known as Christopolis, the City of Christ.

A local history records that after the curse, “years passed and grass invaded the ruins while the island passed from one hand to another ... Cardinal Durini attempted to recover it from its abandonment and transform it into a kind of earthly paradise, but he unfortunately failed in his noble intent.”

Puricelli was familiar with these and other unsuccessful attempts to rescue the island from Vidulfo’s malevolent oath. Nevertheless, he was not deterred. He had heard of the English writer Francis Dale’s suggestion that the mysterious curse might be undone with fire. The chef was ready and willing to give it a try. That is why, in addition to generous platters of locally grown vegetables, regional cheeses, fish from the lake, polenta and delicately smoked ham, his restaurant, Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, specializes in flamed foods.

The fire treatment appears successful. Or, perhaps, the spirits of the saints have returned. In any case, the lovely little island cradled in the arms of the Alps is once again peaceful and welcoming.

The water taxis that take you to the island can also bring you to Bellagio, an especially pretty village on a promontory on the banks of Lake Como. Its steep stone walking streets are lined with small shops where handwork is practiced and prized. In one, a seamstress hunkers over her treadle operated sewing machine, stitching simple dresses. At I Vetri Di Bellagio, five women glassblowers craft delicate perfume bottles, candy boxes, jewelry and Christmas ornaments. In other shops, potters decorates their stoneware, and a knitter clicks her needles with disarming alacrity -- her old dog sleeping by her side -- as she works on a hat, colorful vest or snugly sweater. Boutiques and shops along the waterfront display silk scarves, men’s ties, fine Italian leather goods and gold jewelry.

The centerpiece of Bellagio, however, is the Belle Epoque confection known as The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. Built as a palatial private residence, the oldest section dates from 1488. Leonardo da Vinci was a guest in 1493. The hotel opened in 1872 and quickly became popular with royalty as well as with such 19th century romantics as Stendhal and Franz Liszt, who found inspiration for his musical compositions in the view of Lake Como and the Alps. Another frequent guest, Gustave Flaubert wrote, “ One could live and die here. The outlook seems designed to balm the eyes.”