Memorable Wines at the "Bottom of the World"

by Caryn Maxim, Maxim Tours, Ltd., Morristown, NJ
 

Combine world class wines – the result of special grapes, excellent growing conditions (alluvial and volcanic soils, intense sun and cool breezes), increasingly sophisticated technology and the influence of vintners from California and France – along with snow-capped mountains, traditional culture, and distinctive regional cuisines – and you have the makings of a memorable wine experience at “the bottom of the world” in Chile.

Though grapes weren’t native to South America, 16^th century European pioneers brought vines, patience and ingenuity, and began producing wines. Beginning in the late ‘70’s, a new set of “pioneers” saw the potential to produce excellent wines for the world market and began collaborating with the local producers.

Most of Chile’s wines come from the Central Valley, extending south from Santiago and sandwiched between the Andes and the coast. Red wines, such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon, are the best developed, though the whites – chardonnays and sauvignon blancs – being produced from the Casablanca Valley, near the coast, are gaining acceptance.

Wine tourism is not well-developed outside of the big producers, such as Concha y Toro, Undurraga, and Cousiño Macul, but it is beginning to awaken. The wineries of the Colchagua Valley, about 100 miles south of Santiago, have collaborated to offer a tour that includes visits to two of the area’s vineyards – one a boutique, the other a large producer – and a 19^th century country house and museum. Throughout your wine-touring, you’ll see many mansions and surrounding gardens, often designed by European architects, that harken back to a more traditional lifestyle.

Complement your wine tastings with a stay at superb Casa Real, one of those great 19^th century wine estates. The mansion dates back to 1880 and its combination of Pompeian and Spanish architectural styles, along with extensive gardens, were impressive even in those days. The French Gothic chapel, built last century for the owner’s daughter’s wedding and recently restored, is considered the “jewel” of the estate.

The gardens are delightful, with sculptures, magnificent specimens of trees from all over the world, a storybook pond graced by black-necked swans and faux Roman ruins. With beautifully restored rooms and marvelous gardens, complemented by discrete service, you will experience the ambience of a bygone era.

On the other side of the Andes – a spectacular crossing by car – is Argentina’s main wine region, in the provinces of Mendoza and San Juan, famous for malbec wines. Other major reds include cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and merlot. Whites include chardonnay, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc and semillon.

In the districts outside of Mendoza, a pleasant colonial city, you’ll find more than 600 wineries! There’s a well-developed self-drive wine route, including small boutiques where you'll have your tasting with the winemaker, and on to the large well-known wineries. You’ll need a bit of advice on where to eat – not all the local restaurants reach the level of some of the wines.

Visiting Tupungato, near Mendoza, you might consider staying overnight at the somewhat eccentric but gracious Chateau d’Ancón. Set in the spectacular western Argentina landscape is a fantasy castle built in the 19^th century by a scion of Mendoza and his American wife, complete with gothic arches, Carrera marble, a tower and eclectic furnishings. Since this region does not yet offer many gastronomic opportunities, Chateau d’Ancon is one place you may dine very well in a gracious atmosphere.

Argentina produces wines in several other regions, most notably in the Andean Northwest, a region known for its dramatic scenery and nearly unspoiled indigenous culture. Here you’ll find the distinctive Torrontes, a white wine known for its fruity floral character, along with chardonnays, malbecs, and cabernets.

Winery visits can be complemented by staying in marvelously hospitable estancias, your best opportunity to sample the region’s excellent traditional cuisine. Spend three or four days in each region to give yourself ample time to sample the wines, the landscapes, and the hospitality of the bottom of the world!—Caryn Maxim