It begins with the water. 85-degree water that is of a color and a clarity that could only be Caribbean. Right now it teems with exotic sea life that puts on a show just for us. Because the boat on which we're traveling is anchored by itself in the most beautiful secluded bay we've ever seen. We frolic in our private paradise, snorkeling around the coral reef and then soaking up sun on an endless beach of bright white sand. And that's just the first hour of our first afternoon aboard the Endless Summer II. 

Warmed by the rays of the tropical sun and yet cooled by the trade wind breeze and the occasional salty spray, it is perfection. From the pristine white sand beaches on the island of Jost Van Dyke to the stunning national park at the baths on Virgin Gorda (where did those behemoth boulders come from?), there is something undeniably unique about the climate here. The perfumed humidity that's so comfortable, so conducive to relaxation and rejuvenation. It is intoxicating. 

How accommodating 

From the first e-mail and telephone exchanges to the last hugs good-bye, there is a warmth expressed by our gracious hosts that's simply unparalleled. We are made to feel at ease immediately by Barry and Rosalind Rice as our every need/desire is anticipated. We are met at the Tortola airport by the same local gentleman who greets and drives all of the guests of Endless Summer II. A nightcap is shared when we arrive at their lovely hillside villa, Summer Heights. In the morning we awaken to a sunrise over Sir Francis Drake Channel. The smell of fresh breakfast mingles with the perfume of the tropics. There's time for a swim in the pool before a roller coaster ride back down the hill to the dock at Nanny Cay.  

The 72-foot yacht itself is a work of art, with a deserved reputation as one of the finest vessels of it's kind in the British Virgin Islands. Four air-conditioned staterooms with private showers and toilets, an indoor and outdoor salon for dining, and enough deck space to occasionally get lost from our fellow travelers. Each guest's likes and dislikes at the dining table are considered at every meal. The hors d'oeuvres without cheese are for the woman who's lactose-intolerant. My companion does not eat mayonnaise; there's none in her shrimp salad. Vegetarians are as well fed as carnivores and everybody's getting exactly what they want. Our skipper is at home behind the blender as he is at the wheel. Just beware of the bushwackers! For us, the level of personal service we experience on this entire trip is unprecedented. 

Vive la Difference 

We've traveled the Caribbean on the luxury cruise liners and now we've done it on a luxury yacht. We've had memorable times on each, but for us there's no comparison to what we’re doing now. Everything offered on the big cruise ships, from five-star gourmet food to the various island side trips, is available on the Endless Summer II. Only it's a better, more rewarding experience.

As opposed to being part of the crush created by hordes of pasty-white tourists who disembark by the thousands, overwhelming the small port towns for an hour or two, we are often the only outsiders in the small villages where we shop with locals. We pull in to the island of Anegada, population 150. Alongside a local family, we feast on fresh lobster yanked right out of Loblolly Bay. Whether it's snorkeling, hiking, para-sailing or windsurfing, we seem to be doing it in our own private world.  

One fish, two fish, ever seen a Trumpet Fish?  

We're swimming through schools of brightly colored parrotfish and swarms of circling little silver guys that look like anchovy. We drift with the current long a coral reef just offshore. There's not another human on the horizon. Anchored off the craggy coast of Norman Island, the ship's first mate guides us into a sea cave, urging us to keep swimming into the darkness until we can see no more. Then we turn and swim underwater back towards the light, reflected rays of sunshine dancing off a zillion swirling fish. It is an awesome moment of nature I'll not soon forget.  

Sometimes the fish seem as curious about us as we are about them. One particular school of brilliant Blue Tang fish have for some reason become attached to me, following wherever I swim. We perform an underwater ballet together, dancing in and out of the coral. Anemones beckon, urchins threaten. Then there's the barracuda experience: up close and personal. But that's another story. 

Food, glorious food 

Warmed by the rising sun, each day begins with freshly brewed coffee, homemade breads and biscuits, sizzling bacon or sausage with eggs, and a variety of tropical fruits, some of which are purchased from vendors who paddle their boats right alongside. Whether it's a morning swim or just soaking up the sunshine on deck, it's easy to work up an appetite by lunchtime. That's when the first mate fires up the BBQ and mouthwatering salads appear as if by magic. The choice of always-available ice-cold beverages on board is reminiscent of a 7-11 display.  

It is the evening meal, however, that stands out as a true gourmet experience. By candlelight we dine on stuffed avocado, sautéed sea scallops, grilled steak or swordfish washed down by fine wines from California's Napa and Sonoma valleys. (A note about the wine: a few weeks before we sailed, we received an e-mail asking about our wine preferences. The sauvignon blanc and the cabernet we requested were on board waiting for us. How perfect.) Each evening's meal is topped off with a most decadent dessert that could've been concocted by a French pastry chef. Not a single meal is a disappointment in any way. It's remarkable to think that all of this culinary quality comes out of a tiny onboard galley. On this cruise, it is manned by a former chef to the Grateful Dead. It's no accident then that we are made to feel like rock-star royalty. Bravo! 

Special requests 

It's our second afternoon. After a brief stop for a refreshing drink at one of the several $500-dollar-a-night luxury resorts that grace these islands, we're on the ship's dinghy being transported back to the Endless Summer II. Recalling a certain phrase in the brochure, my companion turns to the captain and with a gleam in her eye suggests that indeed, she does have a “special request” that he might fulfill to make our trip more perfect. “Would it be possible, sometime during the course of this week-long excursion, to drop just the two of us off on a deserted stretch of tropical beach?...maybe with a blanket? And then maybe come back and get us in a couple of hours?'”  

Without skipping a beat, the captain asks. “When would you like to do this?”  

She says, “Surprise us.”  

He says, “Surprise, grab a blanket. We're dropping you off.” 

Ten minutes later it's just the two of us, left on that deserted stretch of Virgin Island beach. Left to our own devices. With the waves lapping gently at our feet, we play out our very own version of “From Here to Eternity.” It is paradise. 

Two hours later we are retrieved, returning with a romantic tale to share at the evening meal, the tantalizing aroma of which intrigues us even as we approach in the dinghy. Mmmmm, a person can work up an appetite in these British Virgin Islands. 

It's a wild, wild life 

I know, we've talked about the fish. But the wild life is so much more than all those colorful fellas with fins. The coral itself is alive. It shimmers with different colors as the sunlight dances along its craggy edges. Snorkeling lazily along, we spot a school of sea turtles and head after them. Not far from us the calm ocean surface is suddenly broken.  

It's a pelican, crash-landing face first at a high rate of speed. The bird knifes through the water, surfacing with a beak full of fresh catch. It becomes a favorite early evening diversion: gathering on deck with our drinks and hors d'oeuvres to watch these pterodactyl-like creatures gracefully glide along before suddenly making a several-hundred foot dive for their dinner. 

Speaking of prehistoric-looking, the iguanas sunning themselves on Peter Island are a sight. Blinking lazily with their hooded eyes they seem as if they've been sitting on these rocks forever. 

Also used to living life on the rocks: herds of small goats that in some cases are the only inhabitants of some of the tiny atolls that make up the British Virgin Islands. In fact, I'm recalling now, that deserted island experience wasn't completely deserted. During the course of our star-kissed time there, I was vaguely aware of a baby goat observing our reverie from the cliffs above. The bleat goes on. 

We take a jeep ride past a flock of pink flamingos gracing a lagoon on the desert isle of Anegada. We're on our way to the most fabulous snorkeling on the trip. Four distinctly different shades of water, from key lime green to neon-turquoise surround a coral reef that's home to huge spiny lobsters that eye us suspiciously and tiny gobys that dance above their sandy burrows. And a toothsome teenage barracuda. But that's another story.  

Denouement 

Back on Tortola we spend one last night in paradise at the Summer Heights home of Roz and Barry Rice. One more evening of great food, and drink and friendship. Plans begin immediately for another Endless Summer adventure. 

For the author, it's back to work as a California journalist. For the crew and the yacht, the natural wonders of the British Virgin Islands are beckoning for another group to experience.